No, it doesn’t go very far, and no, it’s not under its own power – yet. But it *is* movable! Robert has put the tires & wheels on, and set the whole thing on wheel dollies, so that he can move it out from the corner of his shop and get to the back end and driver’s side more easily.
On my last visit, in addition to oohing and aahing over this, we also discussed some of the many remaining details – like how to finish the back bumper, how to build the two custom skidplates (one for the middle axle and one for the transmission & transfer case), and how to build the cabin roll cage and cargo-bed roll bar.
The fuel tank arrived before I made this trip, so I took it with me. I should have plenty of range with 40 gallons, but the tank sure is big!
I decided to put a permanent bulkhead panel between the tank and the cabin; it’ll follow the angle of the inner fenders, run horizontal for a few inches to get behind the cabin roll cage, and then go vertical to meet the top of the side panels. The spare tire will lie flat above the tank, on a carrier that will likely be tied in to the cargo-bed roll bar.
The fuel pickup assembly arrived a couple of days ago, minus the fuel pump itself. Initially, I was surprised at that, but after thinking about it I realized that the pump has to be removable so it can be replaced (they *do* wear out on occasion). So that’s okay. But there’s a problem with the float design – take a moment and see if you can figure out what it is from these two photos before reading any further.
When the float shows empty, it’s resting at or near the bottom of the pickup tube, so the tank really *is* empty (or very close to it). But when the float shows full, it’s only two-thirds of the distance between the bottom of the pickup and the top! So the gauge will register full until the first third of the tank has been used!
I noticed that there are baffles, and what looks like a small sump, in the bottom of the tank, so it might not be possible to extend the arm on the float. But if it *can* be extended, I certainly plan to do it so that I can have a more accurate reading of my fuel level. To be sure, I’d rather have the inaccuracy on the full end of the spectrum than the empty end (imagine having your gauge read empty and there still actually being a third of a tank left!), but if I can improve the overall accuracy I’ll take the opportunity.
I’m also undecided on which side will have the filler. I prefer to have it on the driver’s side, because it’s more convenient that way. But I’m concerned about fuel spillage from the fill tube if the JeepMonster leans too far to that side, so I might run the fill tube across to the passenger’s side so that when the JeepMonster tilts left, fuel flows away from the cap, and when it tilts right, most of the fuel in the tank flows away from the tank end of the hose. I’ve also done some research and have found a fill-tube check valve for a 1957 Chevy that might work, but I want to see if the tank came with one built in before I buy one. Another concern is that, if I run the fill hose to the driver’s side, it might have too many angles or bends or something that might make filling the tank a royal pain.
But those are decisions that will come later, once I have the ‘Monster home and can sit in it for hours, just thinking and musing and letting ideas percolate.